In fairness I felt I had good cause. A hand had grabbed my shoulder from behind as I bent over to retrieve our bags and instinctively I stood up banging my head on the metal roof of the Supratour bus’s luggage compartment in the process. (Incidentally, Supratour buses are an excellent way to travel in Morocco.)

It was dark, I was tired and a swarm of touts had engulfed us as soon as the bus door had hissed open in Essaouira. I shouldn’t have shouted at the man… but grabbing someone from behind in the darkness is rather stupid. As it happened he did actually back off and we were left alone.

Trouble was as we hadn’t a clue where we were or where Dar Al Bahar was in relation to our current position, we did actually want the services of a taxi.

Tip 1 that I wish we’d known before we arrived in Essaouira.
The bus station isn’t far from the entrance to the Medina.

After an over priced journey of a couple of hundred yards (rookie error) our taxi pulled up at Essaouira’s main square and the driver gestured that we should get out.

“So where exactly is Dar Al Bahar?”

Tip 2 that I wish we’d known before we arrived in Essaouira.
The square is as far as taxis can go. They can’t enter the Medina at all.

“It’s over there,” he gestured vaguely in the direction of the square. “Down one of those alleys.”

In Marrakech we would have had no chance. But in Essaouira I had one vital piece of information that gave us a glimmer of hope of actually finding the dar in the Medina’s maze of streets; it was built into the town’s sea-facing ramparts.

Easy. Stick like limpets to the fortress walls and we had to stumble across it at some point. It was 10pm, we were hungry and wanted to get booked in and get out to eat as quickly as we could. I picked the first dark alley leading into the Medina and set off at a pace.

Marrakech had taught us that there was no point looking for street (alley) signs, so we simply followed the fortress wall past restaurants and bars and bright lanterns and down decently lit tunnels…until both the restaurants and lights petered out and the path ahead was plunged into darkness.

Arriving in a strange town and walking blindly into a pitch black alley isn’t my idea of a sensible plan, but I figured the Dar had to be somewhere in the vicinity. I took a step into the unknown.

“Jack, Jack,” Andy shouted behind me. “Where are you? I can’t see you at all.”

Yes – it was that dark.

After about 50 yards, and without being mugged, I could make out a faint light ahead and called for Andy to follow. From then on we had the benefit of dim lighting, but the alley veered away from the sea wall, suggesting we might have gone wrong. We were too deep into the Medina to turn back and apart from a couple of cats pigging out on fish heads, there was no other life around us.
With no back-up plan we continued to forge ahead, turning left at every corner based on the premise that left would eventually take us back to the sea. In truth I had no idea where we were.

Sometimes though, my internal navigational system manages to pull the rabbit out of the hat – don’t ask me how. Turning down yet another nameless alley we looked up to see sweet treasure ahead – a hand painted sign with the most welcome words ‘Residence Dar Al Bahar’ scrawled across it. Eureka.

Tip 3 that I wish we’d known before we arrived in Essaouira.
Sort out exactly where your accommodation is and how you’re going to find it before arriving.

On the other hand, exploring those dark and gloomy alleys in Essaouira with no clue about where we were heading was kind of an exciting way to arrive in town. Of course if we hadn’t found the dar I might have a different view on that.

Essaouira in Morocco is a curious place; part working port, part holiday resort and part historical monument with a fusion of colonial European, Arabic and African influences that makes it feel like somewhat of a crossroads between different worlds…which in many ways is exactly what it was.

Formerly known as Mogadir, Essaouria has been a port since the time of the Phoenicians and was one of the major trading centres linking Africa with Europe in the 17th and 18th centuries when it was also known as the Port of Timbuktu.

The current Medina dates back to around the mid 18th century and was built after Sultan Sidi Mohamed ben Abdellah employed the help of a French architect who specialised in military fortifications. The result was a town that had an Arabic heart inside fortified European walls.

Its role as an important trading port meant that it was a melting pot for different cultures from across Africa and Europe attracting artists and musicians as well as traders. This has influenced its current personality to reflect a nature that is part working town, part bohemian haven. Many shops exhibit paintings that have a style peculiar to Essaouira – vibrant and psychedelic colour schemes with images that are simplistic but hypnotic. The music heard from within shops in the Medina is the equally individualistic Gnaoua (or Gnawa) which has evolved from north African roots into a mix of African, jazz, reggae and blues.

It is this recurring theme of a mix of influences that helps makes Essaouira a fascinating and surprising place to visit; it simply defies categorisation.

The Best of What to See and Do in Essaouria

Explore the Medina
Much more chilled than the Medina in Marrakech, visitors exploring the Medina in Essaouira get ignored most of the time and its grid layout means that it’s easier to navigate. Spices, olives and the fish market add colour and aromas to the old town whose character changes at different times of the  day as shops are replaced by bars after darkness falls. Good buys are some of Essaouira’s colourful art and a Gnaoua music CD.

Visit the Port of Timbuktu
If you can avoid being bombarded by a seagull, Essaouira’s port is one of the most fascinating of the town’s attractions. At mid morning it’s a hive of activity as boat-builders hammer away at wooden skeletal hulls and fishermen unload crate after crate of  fruits of the sea from an armada of small blue boats.

Take a Trip to the Iles Purpuraires
Called the ‘Purple Islands’ because Phoenicians used to extract a purple dye from molluscs here, the Iles Purpuraires are now home to an old fort, mosque, disused prison and an eclectic colony of birds including Eleanora’s falcons. Visiting is prohibited during the breeding season (April to October) but private boat trips can be arranged at other times. A permit from the port office is required.

Walk the Walls of the Fort
10Dh gains you access to the fort overlooking the town, port and Iles Purpuraires. It’s a tranquil vantage point from which to enjoy superb views of all three; the view of the islands is particularly good. A plus point is that it also takes you above most of the seagulls…but not all as I found out courtesy of a wet splat on my shoulder.

Visit Orson Welles
It’s not particularly impressive but the bust of Orson Welles, who filmed Othello in Essaouira, is  worth seeking out if only for its curiosity value. It lies in the centre of a garden near the gate of Bab El Minzah beside the port. Unfortunately poor old Orson isn’t treated with the respect he deserves and is often given a colourful makeover by local ‘artists’.

Splash Out on a Spa
There’s no roughing it at Azur Art & Spa where modern art and a contemporary and ultra stylish hamman meet. Considering that this is the sort of spa where you feel like a star it’s not that expensive with basic massages from around 150DH.

Be a Beach Bum
After exploring the Medina the wide, golden sands beckon and Essaouira has more than its fair share of beach. Surfers, kite-boarders and wind surfers flock to the windy waters. If you’re no good on a board you can stay on dry land and ride the endless sands on a horse, camel or quad bike.

Go to the Gnaoua Music Festival
Plan, if you can, to be in Essaouira in late June (21st to 24th June 2012) for this fab festival in Place Moulay Hassan that features the best of mystical Gnaoua music as well as jazz, rock and world music.

Where to Eat in Essaouria
There are loads of good restaurants in the Medina in Essaouira where it feels as though there’s a wider choice of food than in the Medina in Marrakech. Our recommendations cover a range from stylish dining to budget snacking.

Restaurant le Sirocco (15, Rue Ibn Rochd; +212 524 472 396)
A beautifully decorated modern restaurant with a warm, inviting colour scheme and mosaic topped tables that serves a mix of traditional Moroccan cuisine with a French influence. The starter of 10 Moroccan salads is a good way to sample an array of typical Moroccan flavours whilst the chicken pastilla (chicken in a light puff pastry pie topped by cinnamon) is an intriguing mix of savoury and sweet that works a mouth-watering treat.

Caravane Café (2 bis rue Cadi Ayad; +212 524 783 111)
Painter Didier Spindler has combined art gallery with restaurant to create the wonderfully named and delicious looking Caravane Café. Each room is designed in an individual and, unsurprisingly, arty style. The menu is equally eclectic featuring French, Moroccan, African and Asian dishes that are as imaginative as the décor. Romantic, quirky, arty-farty call it what you like…we call it one of the best restaurants in Essaouira in which to dine.

Au Bonheur Des Dames (Place Essaouira Medina, +212 613 940 835)
A wonderful spot, almost opposite the fish market in the Medina, to escape the dusty, busy streets. The little square is home to a handful of restaurants that are conveniently located for a spot of breakfast, lunch or coffee (as it’s Morocco, more likely mint tea) and a cake. Our pick of them was Au Bonheur Des Dames mainly because the chatty and incredibly helpful owner made it feel very welcoming. It also has free wi-fi which is a massive bonus.

Place Moulay Hassan
Place Moulay Hassan is lined with restaurants. But if you arrive in town on the last bus, finding one that is still serving isn’t always easy. There are a couple of snack bars just off the square that are still bustling after many restaurants have shut up shop for the night. They’re cheap and serve decent paninis and shawarmas (a North African sandwich of chunky meat in pitta-like bread).

Nightlife in Essaouria
Essaouira is a resort town so there are quite a few places that are a mix between being a bar and a restaurant where there is also live music or some sort of show. If you fancy a belly dancing show try Casa Vera on the main square. For Gnaoua musicians head to Le Coin des Artistes (21, rue Sidi Abdesmith) and for clubbing Essaouira style it’s got to be Loubous near Bab Sbaa.

Our favourite for a sundowner, as well as being a chic after-dinner joint, is the cool rooftop scene at Taros. Being just off the main square it has great views over the fort walls towards the Iles Purpuraires. Taros also has some decent musicians which makes the 35DH bottles of local beer seem not too bad in value terms.

Where to Stay in Essaouria

Dar Al Bahar (1 Rue de Touahen)
Meaning ‘House by the Sea’, Dar Al  Bahar is a beautiful, traditional dar of four storeys built into the ramparts of the old city with views over the ocean and the medina. Perfectly located within a footstep of the heart of the bustling medina but far enough away to provide complete tranquillity, Dar Al Bahar is packed to its pretty roof terrace with character and charm. Read our full review of Dar Al Bahar here.

Buzz trips opinion

Meaning ‘House by the Sea’, Dar Al  Bahar is a beautiful, traditional dar of four storeys built into the ramparts of the old city of Essaouira with views over the ocean and the medina. Perfectly located within a footstep of the heart of the bustling medina but far enough away to provide complete tranquillity, Dar Al Bahar is packed to its pretty roof terrace with character and charm.

Amidst carved wood furniture, eclectic modern art and the sort of unglazed original Moroccan tiling that makes you want to prise it off and smuggle it back home, the dar combines tradition and authenticity with comfort, pristine cleanliness and a genuinely warm welcome. The breakfast is scrumptious too.

Rooms:
Ten uniquely styled, en suite bedrooms and one apartment overlook either the Essaouira medina or the sea depending on which side of the house they lie. A narrow, spiral staircase leads up three storeys to scented landings off which the bedrooms lie. We had Malika which is on the third floor and faces out to the sea. A comfortable, wrought iron double bed occupies the main sleeping room with a beautiful wooden roof, a curious corner wardrobe with shelving that means you can only hang garments that are less than 18 ” long, a cupboard housing extra pillows and bedding and a window onto the ocean. The pièce de resistance however is the fabulous en suite bathroom with its rose quartz coloured tadelakt walls with tiny alcoves, walk in shower and latticed shutter window over the medina on which pigeons rested, their feathers pressed against the glass.

Facilities:
Breakfast is taken in the small dining area on the ground floor where bowls of freshly cut roses lie in pretty bowls as centre pieces on the mosaic, wrought iron tables and a huge wood burning stove and chimney occupy one corner of the gold and blue room. Accompanied by the soft background of Gnaoua music, hot, fragrant Arabic coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, fruit, crêpes with jam and butter and warm bread are served for breakfast. Breakfast can be taken on the roof terrace if you prefer. Dinner is available by pre-booking and they have a good selection of vegetarian dishes as well as the more traditional lamb and chicken tajines.

Prices at Dar Al Bahar begin at €40 per night for room and breakfast.

Andrea (Andy) Montgomery is a freelance travel writer and co-owner of Buzz Trips and The Real Tenerife series of travel websites. Published in The Telegraph, The Independent, Wexas Traveller, Thomas Cook Travel Magazine, EasyJet Traveller Magazine, you can read her latest content on Google+

The contrast between the chilled out vibes of Place Moulay Hassan in Essaouira, Morocco, and the frenzied entrance to the harbour area via a gate in the town wall comes as a bit of a surprise. One second you’re strolling along, contemplating how relaxed the scene is compared to the frenetic Medina in Marrakech and the next you’ve strayed deep into Alfred Hitchcock’s Birds territory with a bit of Pirates of the Caribbean Dead Men’s Chest thrown in for good measure.

On one side, huge gulls patrol the walls, their beady eyes fixed on entrails and fish heads that are about to be discarded by the fishermen squatting on the rocks. Opposite are small Mediterranean-blue fish stalls, their steel trays waiting to be filled by the morning’s booty. In-between them, a posse of  small-dog sized spider crabs are trying to make a getaway; the ground is sodden with who knows what and the smell is not pleasant. I get the feeling that Essaouira harbour will linger with me for some time.

It’s around 11am and there’s a buzz of activity in the harbour through the other side of the gate. But to get there I have to cross the most dangerous section where the air is filled with more seagulls than I’ve ever seen in in one place before. When they get tired there are thousands more on the shores of Ile de Mogador just a hundred metres or so across the water. I’d seen pictures of Essaouira before and there were seagulls in every one. Now I understood why. The route ahead is polka-dotted with their bombs and I can hear splats around me as I put my head down and hope for the best.

Incredibly I make it without even picking up a speck.

Essaouira harbour is a revelation. Despite the late hour, hundreds of fishing boats are still unloading their catch. Fishermen pass colourful plastic crates filled with silver creatures along lines that stretch from the boats all the way to waiting vans, carts and donkeys. Some sardines go straight onto wooden trays resting on bright plastic crates to be immediately haggled over; their owner shovelling handfuls of salt over them to stop them rotting in the searing sun.

In parts of the harbour it’s impossible to see the sea; hundreds of small blue craft are jammed together so tightly that its possible to cross from one side of the harbour to the other using them as a pontoon. Despite the abundance of fish, the seagulls stay a respectful distance.

Fishing harbours are hypnotic places and I could spend hours watching the interaction between sellers and buyers whilst soaking up the smells, sounds and vibrant atmosphere. But I spot a cloud on the horizon and I want a couple of blue sky shots across the harbour and of Ile de Mogador and the Iles Purpuraires.

The best vantage point is from Essaouira’s ramparts between the harbour and the islands. It’s 10 dirhams entrance fee (about €1). Apart from being a tranquil sanctuary so close and yet so far from the bustling harbour, the walls and fort offer a 360 degree view of Essaouira, the harbour and the islands.

I focus on the old fort and prison on the tiny islands across the channel of water, wait patiently until there isn’t a flurry of seagull activity in front of my camera and gently press the button – SPLAT! A white bomb glances off the side of my head and explodes on my right shoulder.

I’d grown complacent. The longer I lingered, the more I was playing too free and easy with the law of averages. It was inevitable. Few are lucky enough to survive Essaouira harbour’s vigilant guardians.

Still, sometimes you’ve got to take one for your art and anyway it’s supposed to be good luck…isn’t it?

Jack is co-editor, writer and photographer for BuzzTrips and the Real Tenerife series of travel websites as well as a contributor to online travel sites and travel magazines. Follow Jack on Google+