Something of an enigma in so far as, it received its Michelin star when it was temporarily closed, Nub (pronounced noob) is the creation of Italian chef Andrea Bernardi and Chilean chef Fernanda Fuentes Cárdinas. Its heady promise of a creative fusion of Italian and Chilean cuisine had long been anticipated, and an early flight to La Palma was all the excuse we needed to book a night at the hotel and dinner at Nub.

It was a Wednesday night and only a handful of diners were already eating as we were shown to a table alongside the open kitchen. Opting for the shorter, Lauquen menu of nine courses (€75pp), the arrival of the amuse bouche didn’t just amuse the palate, it also spread smiles across our faces. If we were in any doubt as to the importance of the cloud analogy to the restaurant, ‘snacks in the cloud’ dispelled it, providing six contrasting bites, two of which were placed on white clouds atop tall spikes.

Favourite amongst the ‘snacks’ was the horseradish in white chocolate – a creamy blend of sweet then spicy that exploded in the mouth in an ecstasy of flavour – once we’d mastered the tweezers to get it from cloud to mouth. A tiny sopapilla; miniature carrot with tangerine; miniature corn-on-the-cob with mature butter; and clam on a gofio biscuit were rounded off with melon in beetroot with rica-rica herb.

Each course provided an exciting blend of taste and texture, drawing elements from classic Italian and Chilean dishes and combining them with traditional Canarian, using locally-sourced ingredients.

Two particular highlights stand out from the innovative and beautifully executed menu. First course was a Mozarella, tomato and basil in kefir cream topped with a fine, goat’s milk cheese tuile. The crisp texture and salty sour taste of the tuile melted into the sharp and creamy cheese and sweet tomato. Then came the crème brûlée of corn with aged onion and herbs ceviche, probably our favourite dish of the evening. A rich, spicy, smoky cream chowder infused with the sweetness of the aged onion and citrus-sharp, it was the sort of dish you could eat every day of the week and never grow tired of.

I particularly enjoyed the elevation of bread to a course in its own right, or “bread as a protagonist” as it was presented to us. Instead of the bread being something you pick at to stave off hunger while you’re waiting for the first course to arrive, at Nub it’s served three courses in. Three superb breads – svelte, buckwheat and tomato with Parmesan – were served along with olive oil and salt from La Palma, and classic Italian chicken liver pâté.

Beef tongue with watercress, sea bass with fried sour dough, and low temperature-cooked pigeon with Black Canary pork followed before the first sweets arrived. There were more raised eyebrows when the waiter proceeded to pepper the dessert – a tangy combination of orange, caramelised black olives, onions and black pepper ice cream.

We may have been sceptical when Nub received its Michelin award but all doubts as to the merit of the star vanished over the tasting menu. The chefs have not only taken liberties with the fusion of their native classic dishes, turning an Italian summer salad into a dessert and teeming tiramisu with torrija, but they’ve turned the menu around, elevated bread to a main course, and played with the presentation providing a strong sense of theatre to accompany the meal. And they end the experience with a rather nice little surprise which I won’t give away here.

The combination of a night at the gorgeous La Laguna Gran hotel and a meal at Nub is a winning combination for a special occasion and turns any old Wednesday into an occasion.

In months we’ve not eaten at the same restaurant twice, and there are still restaurants on our ‘must try’ list.

In Sado Setúbal (Rua da Marquesa do Faial 1; open daily 10am-11pm)

Ravenous, we rolled in early evening when the place was empty and promptly over ordered petiscos (small dishes). Generous portions included a pot of homemade crisps (sometimes confusingly served as ‘chips’ in Portugal), melted cheese with walnuts, choco frito, salt cod patties, gratinated scallops, and scrambled eggs with ham and mushrooms. All excellent and far too much food, but we still ordered cheesecake for afters. It came in a jam jar and was divine. As we left all the waiting staff waved a cheery farewell which was nice.
The look: Attractively quaint, a bit like an old fashioned shop full of curios such as Singer sewing machines, old TVs, record players etc.

Perola da Mourisca (Rua da Baía do Sado 9; open Wed to Sun 12.30-3pm & 7-10.30pm, Mon 12.30-3pm, closed Tuesday)

Amazingly the number 2 Setubal restaurant on Tripadvisor. Amazingly because it’s in a agricultural hamlet most visitors would never stumble across. The majority of reviewers are Portuguese though. It was packed when we visited one Friday lunchtime. There were too many tempting goodies on the mainly fish and seafood menu so we let the waiter decide for us. He didn’t let us down. Kicking the lunch off was snow white sheep’s butter and bread, then red peppers filled with moist crab, quail eggs on mini toasts, goat’s cheese on morcela, clams in white wine, and choco frito. Finally we completed the stuffing with apple pie and a slice of cake covered with baba de camelo (camel spit).
The look: A homely, typical traditional restaurant with no outstanding features. The food is more sophisticated than the décor would suggest.

490 Taberna STB (Av. Luísa Todi 490; open 12.30-11.30pm, closed Tues)

490 Taberna occupies a middle ground between traditional Portuguese restaurants and the more contemporary new breed serving rebooted local cuisine. So you get popular dishes served with some flair like quail eggs and presunto (cured ham) on mini toasts; neat little dishes of octopus salad, pataniscas (salt cod patties), spicy chicken wings, and crispy potato skins all served in wire baskets. Portions aren’t overpowering, leaving space for a neat little trio of desserts which included the ubiquitous Portuguese version of crèma Catalana.
The look: Colourful tiles decorate some walls, the bar and ceiling are covered with slatted wood. It’s a cosy design, and space.

De Pedra e Sal (Largo do Dr. Francisco Soveral 2; open 12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm)

Specialising in grilled meat, this is not a place we’d normally go for. But more than one person recommended it so on a cool December night we gave it a try and loved it. For a start, the flames from the kitchen made the whole restaurant toasty. The open kitchen provided fascinating entertainment, and the way the food was presented was a talking point in itself. We got the juices flowing with a beautiful trio of oysters on a wooden board. Then came the meat, duck for me steak for Andy, cooked perfectly and served on marble slabs. Accompanying were clay bowls with a mix of vegetables, migas and sweet potato. There was no room for pud after that lot.
The look: the epitome of urban chic without being pretentious. Ropey lighting features (not in the dodgy sense), clean pine shelving units and tables, and funky tiled counters all combine to make it stylish yet intimate.

Photo Experience Cafe (Av. Luísa Todi 253; open 10am-7pm, midnight at weekends, closed Sun & Mon)

One of Setubal’s quirky dining options. As the name suggests photography features highly. It’s part photographic exhibition (you can pick up some nice prints and original postcards) and part restaurant/cafe. And also very friendly. Staff who spoke perfect English told us all about local wines and where gastronomic events were being held in the area. The food was as eclectic as the décor; a small menu including a few things we fancied. Savoury stuffed mushrooms were followed by fresh and zingy goat’s cheese pasta and pork fillets with a stunning lemon risotto. To round off we had a steaming rhubarb crumble which prompted a discussion with the waiter about whether Portuguese or British crumble was best. We decided they were just different.
The look: Quite cool and Spartan in a contemporary gallery sort of way. Not romantic dining, but hugely interesting.

Martroia (Av. José Mourinho 116; open daily midday-11pm)

On a sizzling October afternoon we took refuge under an umbrella on the restaurant’s small exterior terrace opposite the town beach… and were still too hot. At the end of the area where most fish restaurants are located, Martroia’s menu offered something a bit different. Spicy chamuças (samosas), light and fresh octopus salad, gratinated scallops, and seafood wraps were just the right amount for lunch on a hot day. The puds were excellent; moist cakes served on chunky wood.
The look: Inside is rather masculine with wine coloured walls, black tables and chairs, and a chequered tile floor. The outside terrace has more of a modern beachside restaurant vibe.

Tasca do Xaroque (Tv. de São Cristóvão 4; open Tues to Fri midday-3pm & 7-11pm, Sat 7-11pm, closed Sun & Mon)

There was nothing particularly innovative about the food at this tiny tapas restaurant on a narrow side street in the old town, but it was prepared with care and the place had a lovely feel to it. The tasca was run by one woman with the help of her son, who looked about eleven. We were quite reserved having only a hearty salad, which included melted blue cheese drizzled with honey on lightly toasted bread, then chicken farinheira (Portuguese sausage) with scrambled eggs (most of the other diners were eating this), and finally meringue in a can (a nod to one of the town’s industries).
The look: Like the food; fresh and pleasing to the eye. A nice place to dine in.

Bar Absurdo (Av. José Mourinho 24; open Sat to Wed 4pm-midnight, Thurs to Fri 4pm-4am, closed Sun & Mon)

One of the nightlife spots in town has a small, funky restaurant with a terrace which overlooks the harbour. It also has a pretty talented chef. A ridiculously cheap taster menu (€30 for two) included chickpeas with salted cod, meatballs in a sweet tomato sauce, chourico with scrambled egg, squid and Russian salad, and pork fillets with creamy rice. Outstanding value for too much food. But how can you complain about that?
The look: Boldly creative with open cubicles consisting of extremely comfortable cube stools above which curved wooden slats completely transform what would otherwise be an ordinary ceiling.

Burguesa Burger & Gin (Rua de Augusto Cardoso 80; open midday-3pm & 7-10pm, closed Sun)

Sometimes I get a yen for a burger, a proper burger which hasn’t come off a production line. Occasionally I also fancy a G&T. Unsurprisingly this restaurant ticked a couple of boxes. There’s more than just burgers, we had alheira croquettes with rocket and nuts to start, but burgers are the speciality and there are lots of interesting ones to try. I had a wild boar burger whereas Andy had salmon and hake. Both were accompanied by wonderfully named camp potatoes.
The look: Stylishly studenty, the sort of place where you wouldn’t look out of place tucking into a book as well as an artisan burger.

Loja de Machada (Largo Doutor Francisco Soveral; open Mon to Thurs 10.30am-midnight, Fri to Sat 10.30-2am, closed Sun)

This friendly little Bohemian bar restaurant located on a pretty praça feels as comfortable a fit as a chamois glove. It’s a good spot for picking at petiscos whilst observing life in the small square. There was nothing fancy about our selection of chouriço with scrambled egg, sweet red pepper with ventresca (tuna) and stuffed mushrooms. But it was all tasty, especially the mushrooms which were superb. To end we had a Brazilian dessert.
The look: Casually and comfortably eclectic. The sort of bar to hang out drinking wine and discussing cult movies.

O Amor Faz-me Fome (Praça Marquês de Pombal 2A; open 7.30-11pm,closed Sun)

Love makes me hungry – another lovely, friendly small restaurant. We were the only lunchtime diners when we visited, which was a crime. It deserves to be busy. But we did eat there during a quiet time of year. We were given a complimentary port and tonic whilst we perused a menu which featured a selection of dishes which fused Portuguese cuisine with other influences. Spicy steak tartare was followed by smoked game (alheira sausage) meatballs and then Thai prawns with rice. We couldn’t decide on dessert so the waiter brought us meringue and lemon curd in a can, a chocolate brownie and a red fruit cheesecake and only charged us for two.
The look: Quiet sophistication; exposed stone walls framed by silver slate, wicker shades soften the light, and oatmeal and chocolate cushions add comfort to the seating.

A-Mar Setubal (Av. Luísa Todi 73; open daily 12.30-10pm)

I applaud anybody who tries something different, so I was already in A-Mar’s corner before we stepped through the door of this ‘concept’ deli and restaurant. We ate a set lunch in the deli dining area rather than the restaurant, which meant we were seated beside a distracting wall of local products. The set menu had a few options; I started with mackerel in olive oil and balsamic vinegar whilst Andy had vegetable crepes. For main I had a decent bacalhau dourado and Andy opted for white fish with potato and broccoli. The dessert was anything we fancied from the shop’s artisan cake selection. For €16 with a glass of wine included it was good value even though in the end lunch cost us quite a bit more. We left with a bottle of strawberry tree firewater (medronho) and a jar of chestnut honey which had caught our eye as we ate.
The look: Like you’re eating in a modern delicatessen which, of course, you are.

O Ramila (Av. José Mourinho 22; open 9am-10.30pm, closed Tues)

With so many great harbour-side fish and seafood restaurants in Setubal why pick O Ramila? Simple, it’s the first place we tried choco frito, with a mountain of fried fish and a bowl of salad to accompany it. The crispy tender cuttlefish showed us we hadn’t eaten really good choco until that point. The place was so noisy with locals we could hardly hear ourselves chomp. It was a jump-in-at-the-deep-end introduction to Setubal’s gastronomic scene and we loved it.
The look: A barn of a place with long tables and walls lined by fish tanks. It might be too frantic for some, but this is the real deal when it comes to trying the town’s most famous dish.

The upshot is we rolled up to our apartment in the heart of the multi-cultural Mouraria district at 8pm instead of late afternoon/early evening. By that time I was pining for the simplicity of getting around the city we’d just left, Porto.

The apartment cut a huge chunk in the dark clouds of my mind. Located in an old town house, it was spacious, beautifully decorated, had loads of places to lounge and sip Portuguese wine and, best of all, it had a terrace. Despite the rich seam of restaurants to be mined in Lisbon two factors prompted a decision to buy a pizza from the supermarket and eat in. A) it was an apartment, we had to stock up on basics immediately and therefore a supermarket dash was essential before we did anything else. B) All the restaurants we’d passed had been buzzing with diners. Experiences in Porto told us unless we’d booked, we had to turn up early if we wanted to nab a table.

We got to the supermarket just as the shutters were slowly descending to the floor. 9pm, what time is that to shut a supermarket in one of Europe’s main cities?

Luckily part 1
Luckily Mouraria dances to an independent rhythm; one which isn’t dictated by corporate hours. A small independent supermarket was still open. In our time there I never saw it shut. It was good for water, wine and bits & bobs, but not really anything for a meal which was worthy of a first night in Lisbon.

Luckily part 2
Luckily the aroma of baked bread and melted cheese drew us to a darkened doorway and a dimly lit room full of people tucking into pizzas – the Cantina Baldracca. We tried our luck and were squeezed into the last available table. Within minutes there was a queue of people waiting to get in. The Cantina was tiny, dark, infectiously lively and our first proper taste of the life which makes Mouraria a seductive place to stay. The pizzas had thin bases and tasty toppings, the wine was served in chunky tumblers. Opposite me was a window with bars which looked onto an alley where black and white photos chronicled the lives of the people who lived there. Simple, colourful, fun and friendly. All in all a reflection of the neighbourhood itself.

Lunching at The Crow
After a failed attempt looking for a light lunch of fish butties (a Lisbon thing) in the claustrophobic streets of Baixa-Chiado we escaped both crowds and oppressive heat by heading back to Mouraria’s tranquil maze and, more specifically, O Corvo. Located on the tiny square of Largo dos Trigueros, O Corvo has a funky film noir vibe and an appealing menu. Sitting in its cool (in more ways than one) interior dipping thick chips into hummus and even thicker chunks of bread into a zingy ceviche felt a million miles from the frantic world of the city centre.

Out of Africa
We returned to Largo dos Trigueros for dinner, drawn by the Mozambican menu at Cantinho do Aziz (not deterred by the Daily Mail describing it as having ‘the best African food in town’). Once again we hadn’t reserved. Once again we ended up with the last two available tables and squeezed into a recess in the cobbled alley along with other diners. Once again the atmosphere was buzzing. We ordered chamussas (samosas), yam chips, crab curry, spicy frango (chicken) with coconut rice. The samosas came with a sauce which was blow your head off hot. “That sauce is very hot,” the waiter commented just a bit too late to save us, adding. “I’m not brave enough to try it.”
As we soothed seared throats with cooling Mozambican beers we realised there was one constant about dining in Mouraria – eating out was a lot of fun.

Tapas Portuguese style
“We make our own sparkling wine.”
“Oh go on then twist our arms up our backs, we’ll have a couple of glasses as an aperitif.”
By the time our food came at Espumantaria do Petisco we were both a bit woozy (lightweights when it comes to sparkling wines). Located above Pingo Doce supermarket in Mouraria, Espumantaria was a bit more upmarket than the previous restaurants – more of a comfortably contemporary ambience and menu. The petiscos (small dishes) included an interesting and tasty cream cheese, walnuts and savoury jam combo; an okay ceviche, and an exceptional scrambled eggs with chouriço. The desserts consisted of a crumble which came with a glass of brandy, a feature which didn’t help with the woozy situation.

Peru and pisco sours
Last time we were in Dragon Square (Martim Moniz) on the edge of Mouraria we were on our way to a newly opened Fado house. It was dark and there were no other tourists around as the area was still one which most visitors avoided. That’s all changed, now there’s a healthy spattering of visitors mixing with locals at the stalls selling world cuisines. On an easy Sunday lunchtime we opted for a Peruvian/Mexican mix – pausa and chili con carne… and then spotted they also served pisco sours, a cocktail we’d fallen for in Chile. These were huge, strong and in danger of leading us down the road to a slurry Sunday afternoon.

The art of dining
Chapito is an artistic cultural centre on a street leading to Castelo S. Jorge. The centre has a tapas terrace as well as a restaurant, both with superb sunset views across the Lisboa rooftops. There’s a winning combination of eclectic surroundings, sparkling views, and food as creative as the decór – peach gazpacho; fresh figs in a light sauce; a trio of fish and a melt in the mouth steak. On a trip which took in three cities (Lisbon, Porto and Coimbra) this was our favourite all round dining experience and at around €70 including wine, not as expensive as we’d anticipated. You can also buy voodoo dolls in its arty shop.

I am going to Goa
Back to basics for our final meal in Lisbon, Tentações de Goa located on a narrow backstreet just off Martim Moniz square. It was another tiny Mouraria restaurant with only a handful of tables. The food was simple Goan fare that was authentically delicious. Like many of the other small restaurants we’d eaten in, it was brimming with Mouraria’s vibrant and warm personality.

The truth is we could have eaten in any number of restaurants in Mouraria. There was the Nepalese near the apartment; the Cape Verde restaurant further along the road; the Pakistani restaurant beside the Goan place we ate at; the traditional Portuguese joint where there was always someone strumming a guitar; the restaurant which always had a live band outside and where diners ate their food sitting on the steps… and so on.

One of the things that makes eating in Mouraria such an enjoyable experience isn’t just that the food is very varied and mostly delicious, it’s that you feel you’re eating in restaurants which are a vital part of what is a rather special community. It’s a factor which adds that little bit extra flavour.

Jack is co-editor, writer and photographer for BuzzTrips and the Real Tenerife series of travel websites as well as a contributor to online travel sites and travel magazines. Follow Jack on Google+

The easy way to get to Rathlucken Hütte high above Goiserer Tal (valley) in Bad Goisern, Austria is to drive. It’s what a lot of the locals do. But a more satisfying way is to climb from the valley floor, from somewhere like St Agatha, letting grandiose views unfold as you ascend, winding through forest and crossing pastures before arriving at the delightfully higgledy piggledy terrace of the Rathlucken Hütte. Prime position overlooking the drama of the Austrian landscape are deck chairs designed for two

Although they do a mean sandwich to take away, and they’re perched high above the valley with its streams and lakes, seafood is a speciality, especially char.

Apart from bird’s eye views, Rathlucken Hütte is a hop, skip and a jump from an enchanting forest walk, truly enchanting as the Sagenweg is a fairy tale trail with carved characters along the way, including a dragon in a cave. For bravehearts there’s also the challenge of tackling the Ewige Wand, the Eternal Wall, a sheer rock-face that could possibly deter even Jon Snow and his wildling friends.

Rathlucken Hütte; Norbert Gschwandtner, Wurmstein 2, A-4822 Bad Goisern; open for lunch Wednesday to Sunday, closed Monday & Tuesday

Jack is co-editor, writer and photographer for BuzzTrips and the Real Tenerife series of travel websites as well as a contributor to online travel sites and travel magazines. Follow Jack on Google+

Plaza Mayor it was. We checked menu after menu, each one virtually identical.

We live in Spain and had high expectations of finding food in Madrid that was different from the cuisine we’re used to. Plaza Mayor, beautiful though it was, didn’t come up with the goods.

Out of desperation we picked Restaurant Hegar (Plaza Mayor 35; (+34) 913 667 691; open midday to midnight). The interior was slightly old fashioned, like a room my granny might have had especially for posh visitors. It was full of Spanish speaking diners; the couple at the table next to us knew the waiting staff which seemed a good sign. We ordered small fried fish, tortilla and papas bravas. As suspected, the food was only okay and overpriced.

Two meals in Madrid. Neither had been memorable.

Choosing where to eat in a city isn’t easy. ‘Research, research and research’ you cry. There are two problems with that when it comes to cities. Top 10 lists can feature excellent choices, but they tend to cover a huge area. Unless going out of your way to track restaurants down, one of the top 10s has to be close to the area you’re exploring just when it’s the right time to eat.

Where we chose to eat over five days and nights in Madrid was influenced more by circumstance and various criteria than the advice of a top 10 list.

Lunch was anywhere which took our fancy close to wherever we happened to be. That’s a bit anarchic, but it’s the reality of deciding where to eat when hoofing it around a city during the day.

There’s more control with dinner, although we wanted restaurants within relatively easy walking of our hotel on Plaza Santa Ana.

Our first tapas experience had been in Naturbier (Plaza Santa Ana 9; (+34) 913 600 597; open 10am to 1am). It was chosen because a) it was nearby b) it served traditional tapas and, most importantly, c) it screened World Cup matches and one was about to start. It was packed, the atmosphere was good, the waiter’s eye difficult to catch and the tapas of croquettes, tortillitas de camarones and German sausage with mash (it was the ‘mash’ which swung that one) were decent enough but nothing special.

After 24 hours we’d sussed out menus and mapped our days better to include more of a culinary plan.

For dinner on our second night, we didn’t stray beyond Plaza Santa Ana; the menu at funky Perico had perked our interest (Plaza Santa Ana 8; (+34) 914 298 630; open midday to midnight Sunday to Wednesday, midday to 2am Thursday to Saturday). They’d changed their menu that day and were interested to know what we thought of their prawns in wasabi batter (tasty but light on wasabi flavour). A selection of pinchos (tuna and guacamole, cheese and red pepper, pork and caramelised onions) plus leek and cheese parcels followed by a chocolate soufflé were streets ahead in both the taste and creativity departments than the tapas we’d eaten up to that point.

A route through Park Retiro the following day was timed so we arrived at the botanical gardens inside Atocha train station for lunch. Not only did Atocha ignite childlike wonderment, it offered respite from the sun – a cool scene in more than one way. The Wine Plaza beside the terrapin pool was ideal for enjoying the gardens as well as mini gourmet hamburgers, goat’s cheese salad and a Spanish version of cheesecake.

Saturday night saw the café society scene in Plaza Santa Ana swell to the point we struggled to find anywhere with a free table. We just managed to squeeze in at Lateral Santa Ana (Plaza Santa Ana 12; (+34) 91 420 15 82; open midday to midnight Sunday to Wednesday, midday to 2am Thursday to Saturday). When I say ‘squeeze in’ I mean it. The tables were so close together I could feel the heat from the sunburnt legs of a girl sitting to my right. The tapas were creative and tasty but plates of fried artichokes with ibérico shavings, vegetable tempura, chicken with truffled potato foam and bull’s tail with creamy potatoes came rapid fire one after another. Not quite the long, leisurely dining experience we’re used to.

A tour of Madrid’s Sunday rastro in the streets around La Latino took us on a circuit which ended at the wrought iron frame of the Mercado de San Miguel (Plaza San Miguel; (+34) 915 424 936; open 10am to midnight Monday to Wednesday and Sunday, 10am to 2am Thursday to Saturday). The collection of tapas, fish and seafood, cheese, pinchos, beer and wine stalls had us salivating. It was heaving, requiring an element of assertive shoulder charging to get close to the food. Eventually we managed to cobble together a motley culinary crew consisting of paella, pinchos morunos, mini wraps and a sea urchin, plus a couple of generous glasses of white wine from a mobile wine seller. A downside to the market when it’s so busy is there’s a lack of places to actually enjoy your tapas. We ate ours sitting like a pair of buskers on the steps at a side entrance.

By Sunday night we fancied a break from tapas. However, many menus featured dishes that were too hearty for summer temperatures. One restaurant which had lighter offerings was Lamucca de Prado (Calle Prado 16; (+34) 915 21 000 000; open 1pm to 1am Monday to Thursday, 1pm to 2am Friday to Sunday). With five Lamucca restaurants in Madrid there’s a chain feel to the place, but the décor is attractively stylish and the menu different enough to be interesting. After a Middle Eastern starter of hummus and baba ganoush I had a morcilla and goat’s cheese pizza, a combination which worked for me. It was a good pizza.

A big breakfast meant no lunch stop on our final day. After spotting restaurant Patong Thai during our explore of the streets around Plaza Santa Ana, we’d developed a yen for Thai food (Calle de la Cruz 7; (+34) 911882 736; open midday to 4.30pm and 8pm to midnight). Prices were reasonable and a taster menu of dishes meant we were able to satisfy our lust with a range of deliciously perfumed Thai dishes.

It might seem a crime to pass up on all those atmospheric Madrid tapas bars with their hanging jamóns and painted tiled entrances in favour in contemporary restaurants and cuisine from other countries. But here’s the thing. After dinner we like a couple to drinks to finish off the evening.

Guess where we chose to do that? That, my friends, is called enjoying the best of both worlds.

Jack is co-editor, writer and photographer for BuzzTrips and the Real Tenerife series of travel websites as well as a contributor to online travel sites and travel magazines. Follow Jack on Google+

Jump forward eight years and although the gastronomic situation had also moved forward, and we ate well in colonial mansions whose grand looks helped boost the taste factor, the cuisine felt as though it didn’t quite match the sophistication of the island’s architecture, art or fashion scene.

“Some chefs try new things,” one local told us as he pointed out one of the only creative restaurants he knew was doing okay. “But people ask why should you change food that is already good, even younger Palmeros.”

Skip forward another four years and it feels as though the gastronomic scene on La Palma has positively blossomed. We’ve visited La Isla Bonita three times this year, staying in Barlovento, Puntagorda, Los Llanos de Aridane, Fuencaliente and the capital Santa Cruz whilst we explored as much of the island as we could manage. The food we devoured along the way ranged from being good to bloody delicious.

Although we’ve taken note of quite a few more La Palma restaurants to check out on future visits, these are the ones which had us enthusiastically toasting the chef with lashings of local vino.

Favourite Restaurants in Santa Cruz de La Palma
Over the years we’ve eaten at many of the restaurants, cafés and bars in Santa Cruz. We enjoyed eating out in the town this year more than ever before.

Bar Cinnamon
Bar Cinnamon was recommended by the owners of nearby Hotel San Telmo. It’s a restaurant rather than a bar (it seems to be a thing, El Rincon del Enano opposite is called a pizzeria yet has a menu full of above average nosh… as well as pizzas), a modern, bright restaurant with zingy white and red colour scheme and menus which are colour co-ordinated with the décor. The menu has Spanish/Canarian roots but the reality of the food at Bar Cinnamon is it’s only a distant relation to the dishes served in traditiona restaurantsl. ‘It’s morcilla Jim, but not as we know it…’
Stand out dish: Blue cheese croquettes in a white chocolate sauce. Trust me, this unlikely combination works a treat.
Plaza Santo Domingo; open 1pm to 3.30pm and 8pm to 10pm, closed Sunday.

Casa Los Indiano’s
Located beside the bus terminal, the interior of Casa Los Indiano’s is like a cavernous barn full of wonderful paintings of the people and the fiesta it’s named after. It’s a gorgeous place to have dinner and the bar is of the sort which calls out to your elbows. It’s a haunt of the local bus drivers so you might expect it to be traditional, it’s not. The menu is tantalisingly different from standard Canarian restaurants.
Stand out dish: Tuna tataki with a honey, soya and sesame glaze. Sublime.
Avda. Los Indianos, 2; open midday to 1am daily.

Los Llanos de Aridane
Los Llanos de Aridane is a revelation for visiting vegetarians. Many menus in the artistic town include a decent selection of vegetarian options. Creativity abounds in Los Llanos de Aridane’s colourful streets.

El Duende de Fuego
Stick to the old town and you’ll miss this cracking little restaurant. It feels like a mix of gourmet deli, art gallery and contemporary restaurant. A glass cabinet exhibiting ingredients is almost as colourful and distracting as the art on the wall. The chef is local, the ingredients he uses are local, but the menu is unique. There were a lot of dishes that were new to us; it was almost impossible to make a decision.
Stand out dish: It’s a tough call as every dish we tried was full of intoxicating flavours but I’m going for tuna with fried green bananas – just such a fresh and delicious fusion of flavours.
Calle Teniente General Gonzalez Del Yerro; open 10am to 4pm and 7pm to 11pm Tuesday to Saturday, 6pm to 11pm Monday, closed Sunday.

Don Escaldón
There’s something vaguely decadent and old school about Don Escaldón, yet at the same time the vibe is fresh and bang up to date. Tables are laid out in various rooms in a colonial town house. There’s a funky and fab roof terrace which is THE place to sit if dining there in the summer months. The menu leans towards northern Spain so although quite traditional, it’s different from many other restaurants.
Stand out dish: Pulpo feira. The octopus at Don Escaldón is simply the most tender we’ve eaten anywhere. The homemade, doorstop chunks of Galician bread also deserve a special mention.
Calle Real, 25; open 11am to 4pm and 7pm to 1am, closed Sunday.

EME22
EME22 is a sleek modern tapas bar with artisan beer and tapas scratched out in coloured chalk on a blackboard. Again, it’s in the newer part of town so easily overlooked. It’s better for a light lunch than dinner and its small menu has some interesting dishes.
Stand out dish: Crocantis. We had to ask what these were. Basically they are cubes of local cheese breaded, fried and served with a creamy, spicy salsa.
Calle Enrique Mederos Lorenzo, 22, open 8am to midnight Monday to Thursday, 8am to 2am Friday and saturday, 9am to 3pm Sunday.

Fuencaliente
The area including Spain’s youngest piece of land was probably the biggest surprise. We spent a Friday night in Los Canarios in Fuencaliente many years ago and it was an experience which was probably at the opposite end of the scale from sophisticated. Things have changed.

El Jardín de la Sal
Sitting below ruddy volcanoes and above surreal salt pans, El Jardín de la Sal is a culinary oasis in a weird and wonderful landscape. It’s a place to lose an afternoon, bright airy with lots of glass so you can gaze dreamily at the sea even if the wind is gusting. The menu is creative Canarian with fish being a good choice. A range of flavoured salt comes as standard.
Stand out dish: A tapas selection featuring a different take on local favourites – tuna montadito, puchero croquettes and chicharro (a small fried type of mackerel) with mojo verde.
Ctra. la Costa el Faro, 1; open 11am to 7pm daily.

Puesta del Sol
The true find of all the restaurants, a place we only stumbled across it due to an unexpected change in plans. Puesta del Sol is a restaurant you have to know about to know about. The small restaurant inside Apartamentos Colón is a sunset trap where it’s easy to be seduced by the golden globe whose rays illuminate the small but tastefully decorated dining area. We’ve now eaten there three times and each time chef Vidal has blown us away with his creations. Most ingredients come from the family’s allotments and orchards (they produce their own wine as well).
Stand out dish: I can’t decide between a wild rice salad with banana, sweet cherry tomatoes and a killer of a tomato sauce or fillet of pork in mushroom sauce served with mini vegetables.
Apartamentos Colón; open 6pm to 10pm, closed Sunday.

It’s because of restaurants like these on La Palma that we specialise in hiking and dining, the hiking part being an antidote to the obvious effects of gastronomic over indulgence.

Jack is co-editor, writer and photographer for BuzzTrips and the Real Tenerife series of travel websites as well as a contributor to online travel sites and travel magazines. Follow Jack on Google+

A magnificent compilation of chocolate mousse; chocolate cake; almond ice cream; broken Oreos; dried banana strips; and toasted almonds lay on a slate. At its heart, an elegant glass filled with passion fruit syrup, and yoghurt and goat’s cheese foam lay on its side as if it had fallen over, spilling its contents. At the bottom of the slate, the name Juan Carlos was scribed in caramel.

Emerging from the kitchen, the young chef introduced himself and chatted enthusiastically about the wild beauty of the salt pans that lay beyond the restaurant window and about the freshness and goodness of the produce used in the restaurant, all of it grown locally and seasonally.

While we chatted, he asked if we had tasted the dessert yet. We admitted we’d been too busy photographing it and not a taste had as yet passed our lips. He asked us to try some, and we duly tasted the rich, creamy chocolate mousse and the dreamy yoghurt and goat milk foam. Then, to our amazement and near consternation, he pinched some of the grape flor de sal decorating one corner of the slate and lightly sprinkled it across the plate. Then he asked us to try it again.

The salt had lifted the chocolate taste to beyond orgasmic, a fact that must surely have been reflected in our cartoon expressions of amazement. We have clearly been seriously underestimating the gourmet qualities of flor de sal and need to pay much more attention to the white stuff being harvested right outside the window.

Where is it?
Located right on the southern tip of Fuencaliente, the most southerly municipality on La Palma, the Jardín de la Sal restaurant has been open for just two years and has already earned itself a reputation that has raised the bar on la Palma’s gastronomic offerings in exactly the same way that salt raised the flavour of our dessert.

Naturally specialising in dishes that showcase the prized, marine salt that is collected in the salt pans sitting alongside, the outside and upstairs terraces would normally be filled with diners and drinkers enjoying the mighty views or the nightly sunsets that emblazon the sky. But today there’s a warning in place for the force of the wind, a storm is coming, and the upstairs terrace is no place to be.

The Looks:
The contemporary styled interior dining room has a ceiling to floor window overlooking the ocean, and pale lilac walls adorned by prints of newspaper articles about the opening of the salt flats nature reserve and the man whose dream it was to preserve the craft of producing marine salt on La Palma. Just a handful of tables occupy the space which is exactly how Juan Carlos likes it.
“Quality not quantity is important to me,” he says.

The Food:
The dessert is the finale to a four course tasting and drinks menu, arranged for us by Visit La Palma, which has taken us on a culinary journey from the island’s emerging craft beers and its trademark dishes of pato asado (roast pork), chicharros (small fried fish), potaje de trigo (corn soup) and cabrito en salsa hierbitas con papas bonitas (baby goat in a herb sauce with speciality potatoes), all given a creative culinary makeover and enhanced by the addition of flor de sal; to its distinctive and harmonious white and red wines.

Highlight amongst the medley of gastronomic treats for me was seared tuna on a bed of sweet potato mash, drizzled with a tomato and coriander sauce. The tuna was beautifully fresh and succulent infused with essence of the ocean, and the sweet potato mash worked symbiotically with the sweet and sharp, tomato and coriander sauce. A triumph of a dish.

The Wine:
The bodega of choice for the restaurant is the local Teneguia whose wines we drank the whole time we were on La Palma and now miss them as our local supermarket doesn’t stock them (plea to Teneguia – please can you supply to Al Campo?). Every bottle we sampled was excellent, from the crisp and fruity, white La Gota and soft, vanilla Teneguia red, to the sweet, golden Malvasia Aromatica. As I was driving and could only taste a miniscule amount of each, it was the most frustrating wine tasting experience ever. Not so for Jack who was definitely on the ‘mellow’ side by the time we left.

The Price:
Starters average €10. Try their salteado de chipirones (baby squid sautéed with onion and Iberico ham), they’re legendary. Main courses range from €7 to €22. They do a salt encrusted fish which is allegedly amazing but which we didn’t get to try. A good excuse for a return visit. Desserts average €3.50 but if you want to enjoy the amazing creation we had, you’ll have to ask for a special of the lot!

The Details:
El Jardín de la Sal; Carratera La Costa El Faro; Fuencaliente; La Palma; (0034) 922 97 98 00; the restaurant is open daily from midday to 6pm; the upstairs coffee bar and terrace is open daily 11am to 7pm (weather permitting!).

Andrea (Andy) Montgomery is a freelance travel writer and co-owner of Buzz Trips and The Real Tenerife series of travel websites. Published in The Telegraph, The Independent, Wexas Traveller, Thomas Cook Travel Magazine, EasyJet Traveller Magazine, Wizz, you can read her latest content on Google+

There is no doubt there are fake reviews on Tripadvisor. But most of the ones I’ve seen are clumsy and not particularly difficult to spot. However, to suggest as much as 50% of reviews are fake is pushing the boundaries of credibility.

As well as hiking and dining we specialise in the Canary Islands. As a tool, Tripadvisor is unbeatable for identifying new restaurants. We use Tripadvisor daily, comparing hotel and restaurant reviews as well as taking a look at the sort of questions people ask on forums. It’s illuminating.

Most reviews we read are genuine. How can we tell? The devil, as they say, is in the detail and we know the destinations extremely well. You can tell whether reviews are genuine in the same way as you can tell whether they’re to be trusted or not, which is a completely different matter.

But to judge the usefulness and trustworthiness of Tripadvisor, you have to break the site into two of its main components.

Tripadvisor Reviews
Some reviews might be manipulated – businesses asking people to post reviews or even going as far as to offer incentives to customers to do so (dodgy). It’s good business sense to ‘remind’ guests/customers that a review is useful.
On the downside, the practice can give a false impression about how good a restaurant is. Top rated restaurants in any destination may be as a result of restaurateurs being savvy rather than the restaurant being better than others around it.
Encouraging people to leave reviews is just smart business sense. Anyone who complains of unfair play, like one restaurant owner on the Greek island of Lesbos who accused a rival of cheating because they used social media, is being naïve at best.

However, there’s no question fake reviews can pose problems for businesses. One British organisation suggested reviewers should provide an invoice to show they’ve stayed at a hotel or eaten in a restaurant. That’s  impractical and not going to happen. But Tripadvisor could take more steps to reduce false reviews and eradicate forum trolls. They could insist on people using their real names to publish reviews or participate in a forum. Anonymity often allows people to behave in ways they wouldn’t if everyone knew who they were. Using real names would also allow hotels to check if a suspected fake reviewer had actually stayed in their hotel. Travel writers who are commissioned to write articles for Tripadvisor have to register under their real name, so why not everyone else?

It might not wholly cut out fake reviews, but it could reduce them significantly.

More of a problem than fake reviews are unjustified negative and misleading positive reviews. Subjectivity is part of any travel review, professional or otherwise. However, where travel writers take a broad view when compiling reviews, Tripadvisor reviewers often think only about their preferences. I used to believe any review which swam against the tide of others was the one not to be trusted. Now I equally view it the other way, especially when reviews relate to hotel food.

An example involves a luxury hotel we know which had downgraded to become an all inclusive hotel. The hotel might have had 5 star looks but its buffet food was 3 star – mediocre quality and unadventurous.
Prices were very competitive which attracted many guests who might not normally fork out to stay at a 5 star hotel. Subsequently most reviews claimed the food was good… and it probably seemed so when compared to the average 3 star hotel. But every so often there was a review which correctly called it out for what it really was. Overall, the reviews painted a misleading picture.

Food can be a terribly subjective thing. But poor quality is poor quality. We see this a lot where resort hotels with the most adventurous and usually most locally themed buffets get marked down for their food. Whereas other hotels where the food is homogeneously bland and maybe more familiar to guests with conservative palates can get better reviews.

For all that, Tripadvisor reviews are incredibly useful as long as you know how to interpret them.

The Problem with Tripadvisor Forums
There can be some excellent advice on Tripadvisor forums but, like any forum, there are just too many contributors who happily dish out advice about places they haven’t been and things they haven’t done. One any one day I could pick out a number of posts about the Canary Islands where incorrect and misleading advice has been given.

These were from the Canary Islands’ forum on the day of writing this.

The response to one query from someone trying to decide whether to book a holiday in Lanzarote or Tenerife was “nothing much to choose between either of them.”
It’s a shocking answer, the islands are as different as chalk and cheese.

Another question was from a person whose criteria for choosing a holiday destination was it should be ‘the least windy Canary Island’. One of the responses suggested Corralejo on Fuerteventura, which just happens to be the windiest of the Canary Islands.

I’ve seen poor advice in forums covering many destinations. After a couple of days of experiencing Sal on Cape Verde I identified misinformation galore on Tripadvisor’s Cape Verde forum.

Another problem with forums is they can paint a severely limited picture of destinations.

In 10 pages of the Canary islands’ forum there was not one question about La Palma, La Gomera or El Hierro. Additionally, nearly all the questions were focussed on purpose built resort areas. They were geographically limited even within the confines of the destination the forum was supposed to represent. That’s not Tripadvisor’s fault, it’s down to the travelling preferences of most of the people who post questions on these forums. In that respect it’s good for package holiday advice.

The rise of social media has relegated Tripadvisor forums to places where people who don’t know how to use Google search go for quite basic information. For some it is the High Street travel agent of the internet. Savvy travellers looking for advice which isn’t run of the mill will easily find more specialist and reliable source elsewhere.

In my experience Tripadvisor reviews are usually genuine and useful with certain provisos. Forums on the other hand are okay for basic information about a destination, but even then they should be treated with caution as they can often be places to pick up as much misinformation as good information.

Jack is co-editor, writer and photographer for BuzzTrips and the Real Tenerife series of travel websites as well as a contributor to online travel sites and travel magazines. Follow Jack on Google+