Our guide, Casimo, visibly sighed when I asked the question. How many times had he been asked about James Bond when he was attempting to share serious insights into life in what was a fascinating and unique city? A lot as it happened.

He might have sighed, but once he started down the Bond road, he was off and running with juicy and amusing snippets that were gold nuggets to a double O seven aficionado such as myself.

James Bond and Matera

Matera was no stranger to Hollywood when the Bond circus rolled into town to film No Time to Die, the final instalment of Daniel Craig’s tenure as Britain’s super spy. It played the part of the Amazonian city in Wonder Woman. In that instance, it looked so fantastical it didn’t register as a real city. Now, when I look at images from the movie, I can identify Matera … just.

It was considered suitably Biblical for Mel Gibson’s The Passion of Christ. Matera does look Biblical; a rock city carved into bleached limestone cliffs. Cave houses, looking as though they have been constructed on top of each other, make up the Sassi, a troglodyte warren of homes, hotels, apartments, churches, monasteries, and hermitages, mostly accessed via a potentially bewildering network of narrow alleys and uneven cobbled steps, some of which lead to dead-ends. It is a maze of a city. In a way, Matera’s Sassi reminded me of a more robustly constructed version of the tumbledown villages of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains.

Despite their fame, or notoriety, neither film had the impact of Bond.

‘One in three visitors who come to Matera are here because of the Bond movie,’ Cosimo told us, shaking his head, still marvelling at the stats. One in three people. It’s incredible. But I understand why. When I saw the background to No Time to Die’s opening sequence, I wanted to be there, to stand in Bond’s shoes. It looked like one of the most incredible places I’d ever seen. And, as this was Bond and not a world conjured up by DC Comics, it really existed. Or so I believed.

Matera, is it just an illusion?

When we heard we were to visit Matera, I hatched plans for channelling my inner Bond by taking a moody selfie on the old bridge across the ravine that links Matera with the rock cemetery where Bond visits the tomb of Vesper Lynd. However, researching exactly where the bridge was located, I discovered there was no old bridge across the ravine. The one featured in the movie was at Gravina, sixteen miles away. It was grafted onto scenes of Matera by the filmmakers. Amusingly, I’ve since seen a specialist UK holiday company use images of the non-existent Matera bridge to promote trips to the rock city on their website. Their customers might be in for a wee shock when they get there.

Cosimo shattered a few other illusions. The cemetery itself doesn’t exist, at least not the way it looks in the film. The hotel where Bond and Madeleine stayed was also a Hollywood construct.

As well as playing fast and loose with architectural reality, the moviemakers caused havoc in Matera, arriving to shoot scenes at the height of the tourist season, shutting down streets for the ubiquitous Bond car chase. Restaurants located on these streets had to close for the duration of filming, not that their owners complained too much; they were paid a hefty sum for every day they couldn’t open. If restaurants in the Sassi look immaculate and freshly decorated, it’s because their owners invested some of the generous ‘compensation’ received from the filmmakers to carry out renovations.

Matera’s ancient streets proved a challenge when it came to filming the car chase, the cobbles were simply too slippery for wheels to gain a traction, resulting in a couple of Aston Martins crashing. The solution? 8,400 gallons of Coca-Cola were sprayed onto the cobbles, the sticky liquid enabling the cars to finally get a grip. Filmmakers say the streets sparkled by the time the soft drink was cleaned off. What they didn’t reveal was that its corrosive qualities also resulted in some erosion.

Reality versus the cinematic version

You might think learning what went on behind the scenes could remove some of the gloss. It is true parts of Matera don’t look exactly the same as they do on the big screen in No Time to Die. However, having watched the film again, the reality is there’s more to Matera, not less, than viewed in the film. And while No Time to Die has boosted the number of visitors, Matera’s relatively difficult-to-navigate, steepish, and uneven narrow streets keep the masses out of much of the Sassi.

Even without the magic of the movies, Matera is one of those extra special destinations, exceeding expectations and then some. Go visit, unlock the Bond within, but leave the Aston Martin at home.

“Everyone calls this Piazza Grande,” says Catia, our guide. “But its proper name is Piazza Camillo Prampolini, named after the Socialist reformer who was born here in Reggio Emilia.”

We follow her across the cobbles and past the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta topped by its gold Madonna and Child, heading towards the ornate façade of the Town Hall where two Tricolour flags flutter in the breeze above the colonnaded entrance. Catia stops short of the steps and turns back to talk to us.

“Prampolini was the man who brought socialist principles back to Reggio from Rochdale.”
“Rochdale?!” We chorus. “Rochdale in the UK?” The incredulity in our voices is near-hysteria pitch.
“Yes, Rochdale. Prampolini greatly admired the work of the Rochdale Pioneers, the men who introduced the first Co-operative Society. It was their work that inspired him to advocate the establishment of cooperatives to sell affordable food to those who needed it, and he persuaded the local government to give free medicine to the poor. He brought Socialism from Rochdale to Reggio and then to the rest of Italy.”

I glance at Jack. No words are necessary.

The Rochdale Pioneers

In 1844, 28 working-class men raised funds and set up a small shop on Toad Lane in Rochdale where they sold good quality flour, oatmeal, sugar, and butter at a fair price to the exploited and poverty-stricken workers of the town. They called themselves The Rochdale Equitable Pioneers Society; they became known simply as The Rochdale Pioneers.

In the nineteenth century, poverty was rife in Northern industrial towns like Rochdale. Working in terrible conditions and poorly paid, the working class were further exploited by shop keepers who watered down the milk and added sawdust to the flour. For most workers the cost of sugar and butter were prohibitively high.

Wanting to free the working class from the shackles of charity handouts and give them the means to stand on their own feet economically, The Rochdale Pioneers reasoned that, by acting as a cooperative body, they could afford to buy good quality produce at wholesale prices and could pass that saving on to consumers. Not only would they be providing affordable food for the poor, but they would also be weakening the power of ruthless shop owners to exploit. Every customer became a member and shared in the profits of the shop through dividends.

Initially only open two nights a week, in less than three months the Toad Lane shop was opening five days a week. Today, there are over a billion members in 1,4 million Cooperative Societies worldwide, including in Emilia Romagna.

Reggio Emilia

Sitting at the crossroads of Italy’s main communications arteries of Via Emilia which runs east to west, and Via Roma which runs north to south, Reggio Emilia remains stubbornly below the tourist radar, despite its proximity to, and easy access from neighbours, Modena and Parma.

The lack of summer crowds means it’s easy to stroll Reggio’s streets and piazzas where architectural treasures sit cheek by jowl with pasticcerias selling the delicious erbazzione (chard and parmesan in buttery pastry) which is characteristic of the town, and salumerias brimming with the superb hams, pastas and cheeses of the region.

As well as its erbazzione, Reggio Emilia is home to what many (me included) consider to be the best Parmigiano Reggiano. Produced from the rich, creamy milk of Reggio’s Vache Rosse, or ‘red’ cows, the cheese retains its soft texture and creamy taste longer than that produced from the Freesian, Modenese and brown cows of the rest of the region. The perfect accompaniment to chunks of Parmagiano drizzled in Reggio’s own balsamic vinegar, is a glass of its sparkling spergola, a light fresh wine that gives prosecco a run for its money.

Monumental splendours

In amongst Reggio’s architectural gems is one which, up until recently, even the residents themselves didn’t know anything about – Chiostri di San Pietro. A 16th century monastery which, following the unification of Italy, was transformed into a military barracks with its arches filled in and its gardens and courtyards destroyed. There it remained effectively hidden and forgotten until 2006 when a project to convert it into public use revealed the architectural splendour that lay beneath the bricks.

Two superb cloisters are now restored to a semblance of their original selves; the small one has red and white Verona marble columns which form a porticoed circumference, and frescoed walls which are currently in restoration. The large one is vast, with gabled windows and niches decorated with 17th century statues of Saints from the Benedictine Order. It’s the sort of place that, if it was in Parma or Bologna, would be rammed but here in Reggio Emilia, we have the place to ourselves.

Birthplace of the Italian Tricolour

In the Town Hall is the Sala de Tricolore, the room in which on 7 January 1797, as Napoleon’s troops marched towards them, 110 men from Reggio Emilia, Modena, Ferrara and Bologna met to design a new flag for the impending independence. Adapting the French flag, they replaced the blue with the green of the Italian Legion and created the flag which is still in use today. The Museo del Tricolore outlines the political events that led up to birth of the Tricolour, along with flags of the various forms it has taken from its initial design to the current day.

Arts & parks

Like its neighbours of Parma, Modena and Bologna, Reggio Emilia is home to many priceless works of art, but unlike its neighbours, there are no crowds, queues or large groups led by guides making it difficult to truly appreciate their beauty.

On the façade of the tower of the Cathedral in Piazza Grande (above) is a statue of the Madonna and Child made of gold embossed onto copper plate, a gleaming masterpiece. In the Basilica de San Prospero in the piazza of the same name, is a magnificent Procaccini fresco of The Last Judgement, along with exquisite marquetry on the wooden choir stalls. It was in Reggio Emilia in the mid-1400s that the art of marquetry was born. But the cherry on the art cake is the Basilica della Beata Vergine della Ghiara, the site of a miracle which, during the 17th-century, was decorated by the elite of Emilian artists. The subsequent frescoes, all dedicated to women, represent some of the greatest paintings of the era.

When all that art and architecture has sunk in, head to the green calm of Popolo Park whose monumental fountain was built in 1885 to commemorate the completion of the city’s aqueduct. Here too you’ll find the Monumento dei Concordia – an ornate Roman burial vault discovered in 1929 and placed in a green space so it would be ‘never perishable’ and the surroundings would bring out the best of the monument regardless of season.

It’s the ideal place to sit and enjoy a slice of erbazzione while trying to figure out why Reggio Emilia is as yet, undiscovered.

Getting there:

Trains run frequently between Bologna Central Station and Parma, stopping at Modena and Reggio Emilia along the way. It’s just a 15-minute train journey from Modena to Reggio. If flying into Milan, trains run frequently between Milano Centrale and Parma.
The easiest way to find timetables, book and pay for trains is with the Trenitalia app. Prices vary depending on whether you use the Frecciarossa, high-speed trains, the Intercity, or the RV trains which are slowest and cheapest.

What set Parma apart from its neighbours, and established a reputation as a well to do, somewhat superior city was when Pope Paul III created the title of the Duchy of Parma as a buffer between the Church states to the east and Spanish-held Lombardy to the west, which he gave to his son, Pier Luigi Farnese. For the following two hundred years, the Farnese family invested in Parma’s development, making it a centre for art and culture. Its air of superiority was fuelled further when Napoleon’s wife, Marie Louise was assigned the Duchy in 1815, bringing French and Austrian influences; croissants and sachertorte (an Austrian cake) are popular in Parma as a result.

This legacy has resulted in an attractive and elegant city whose inhabitants are well-dressed, even by Italian standards, and have a love of culture and gastronomy; Parma has UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy status. For all its haughty reputation (an accusation levelled by Parma’s neighbours) it is a friendly, interesting, and tastebud-pleasing place to spend time in. To get a feel for the place, head to Strada Farini early evening and do what the locals do, order an aperitif, sit back, and soak up the atmosphere of a great Italian city.

The Main Attraction – The Duomo & the Baptistry

On Piazza del Duomo are two classic historical beauties. The Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral (free entry) dates from 1074 and deserves a visit whether anyone is interested in religious architecture or not. Highlight of the impressive structure is Correggio’s controversial painting, The Assumption of the Virgin, which decorates the dome of an apse near the altar. It might look murky from way below, but drop €2 into a coin slot beside the apse and the painting of the heavens is illuminated in all its glory. Next door is the octagonal Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista whose pink Verona marble façade positively blushes in the soft sunlight.

Cultural hot spot – Farnese Theatre

Located within the Palazzo della Pilotta (€12 entry – including the National Gallery and National Archaeological Museum), the Farnese Theatre is quite magical. It is more than a theatre, it is a work of art. Completely constructed from wood, plaster, and straw, it is a miracle it still exists. When its inaugural show Mercury & Mars took place in 1628, it’s claimed it was the first opera performed in Italy. It’s an incredible theatre, the sort of venue you’d expect all the world’s great plays to have been staged. Yet in the hundred years after its inauguration, there were only another eight performances. In 2012, after three centuries of inactivity, it opened its doors to the public once again.

Away from the crowds – Piazza San Bartolomeo

Duck down a narrow alley opposite Basilica di Santa Maria della Staccata to reach the charming little Piazza San Bartolomeo, home to a small market where locals have purchased fruit and vegetables since the 11th century. It feels like a quirky little piazza, probably because of the presence of the Osteria del Teatro, where dishes are served on vinyl LP placemats, and the Torrefazione Gallo Café, which looks like the sort of joint where writers and poets should hang out.

A taste of Parma – Prosciutterias & Salumerias

Everyone knows about Parmesan cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano) and Parma ham (prosciutto di Parma) but pop into a prosciutteria or salumeria and you’ll quickly discover there are a lot more Parma specialities to wrap your chops around. These delicatessens are where locals do their shopping, picking up a range of cured meats and the best quality Parmigiano as well as pastas, olive oils, plates of roasted vegetables, lasagnas, torta frita … all sorts. And even better, you can sit inside some and sample the goodies. Salumeria Garibaldi on Strada Garibaldi is one of the best.

Favourite eating spot/drinking hole – Strada Farini & Borgo 20 Marzo

Enjoying a post-work aperitif, usually served with snacks, is part of Parma life. Enoteca Fontana on Strada Farini has been a popular spot for imbibing wine since the 17th century, now it’s a watering hole for workers and students. As far as restaurants go, Borgo 20 Marzo has a few good ones, all with contrasting menus. Our pick would be La Forchetta, a modern, stylish restaurant whose chef fuses flavours of the Mediterranean with Emilia Romagna cuisine. It’s a wee bit pricey, but worth those extra Euros. One of their desserts, Violetta di Parma, is a violet-flavoured pudding that is divine.

The quirk – Raw horse meat panini

Back in the 1800s, a disease affecting bovines meant cow meat was unsafe for human consumption. The good people of Parma took to eating carne equine (horse meat) instead, and it became so popular they stuck with it. For some reason, it’s traditionally eaten raw. Pesto di cavallo tastes just like steak tartare, maybe a bit stronger flavour. One of the most unusual ways to eat it is in a panini from Da Pepèn, a hugely popular traditional sandwich shop up a side street. It might not sound appetising, but it is very tasty – I speak from first-hand experience. There are plenty of other options for anyone who doesn’t fancy raw horse in their butties.

Summary

We loved spending time in Parma. It’s an attractive and comfortable city in which to pass the time just wandering old streets, pausing at atmospheric bars to snack and people watch, and popping into artisan delicatessens to pick at pastas, prosciutto, and Parmigiano Reggiano drizzled with balsamic vinegar from nearby Modena. But remember to pack your coolest clothes to try to blend in with the chic locals.

Named by the Romans after Salacia, the wife of Neptune and the nymph who was the goddess of salt water, Alcácer do Sal is one of those Alentejo towns that is a sight for sore eyes, yet remains hidden from the gaze of mass tourism. Finding six of the best in Alcácer do Sal required a bit of head scratching as I think of the town simply as a particularly picturesque place to spend some time, mostly just wandering around soaking up the ambience. But there’s more than enough to draw the uninitiated.

Thanks to its strategic location toward the southern end of the Sado Estuary, humans have settled the area since the Stone Age. The Romans and Moors both occupied the town, using it as a trading post to transport salt between Europe and the Mediterranean. The Romans gave the town the Sal part of its name, whereas the Alcácer bit derives from Al-Qasr, the Arabic word for palace.

It’s an area rich in produce – salt, rice, wheat, pine nuts, cork – all of which were transported downriver (the Sado is one of the few rivers in Europe that travels south to north) on special galleons, until the railroad became a more efficient way to transport goods. Alcácer do Sal’s importance as a bustling trading centre fizzled out toward the end of the 18th century and, like many similar towns, it faded from view with the loss of its status. Although its riverside façade looks immaculate, wander one street back and the downturn in its fortune becomes more evident.

Still, it remains one of my favourite places in Portugal.

The Main Attraction – The Riverside Promenade

Alcácer do Sal’s location beside the Sado River is its crowning glory. The town is as colourful and pretty as many other historic Portuguese towns, and features the almost ubiquitous Moorish castle lording it over houses which tumble down to the water’s edge below. But I can’t think of another Portuguese town where the buildings only line one side of the river it sits on. It’s a feature which means that you get an urban stroll on one side, while a short jaunt over either a footbridge, or the Iron Bridge, whose span was designed to open to make way for river boats transporting wheat and rice, takes you to Alentejo flatlands and emerald paddy fields.

Blast from the past – Santuário do Senhor dos Mártires

Thanks to its rich history, there are remnants of past occupiers to be found all around Alcácer do Sal, from megalithic burial tombs and sections of Roman road to the crypt at the Pousada. There are also numerous churches, so plenty for history lovers and fans of religious architecture. One we particularly like is the Santuário do Senhor dos Mártires. Located on the western edge of the town, it was constructed by the Knights of Santiago and is one of the oldest Christian temples in Portugal. Inside are frescoes depicting Roman occupation, but what we sets it apart for us is climbing its tower till we are on a level with nesting storks to enjoy the views across the town to the rice fields beyond.

A Serene scene – Walk in the paddy fields

I have a thing about walking through paddy fields, finding something exotic about them, even Portuguese ones. A short walk from Alcácer’s town centre takes you through glistening rice fields, into cork forests, and beneath the emerald umbrellas of stone pines, all natural features which have contributed to the town’s economy. In theory, there are specific routes you can follow from the town. In reality, these aren’t well marked, and finding your way can be confusing. We used a Portuguese military map to plot our route and still had to get creative at some points. For a far more straightforward but still highly enjoyable walk, simply explore both sides of the river.

A taste of Alcácer – Cuttlefish butty

Unsurprisingly, seafood and rice dishes are specialities in Alcácer do Sal. There are a few riverside restaurants such as A Descoberta in which to try some hearty Alentejo fare and regional offerings like various fish and seafood stews. However, my guilty pleasure in Alcácer arrives served in a roll. I was introduced to a choco frito butty the first time we visited Alcácer, and find myself yearning for that whenever I set foot in the town. For something sweet look out for pinhoadas, little diamond biscuits made from honey and pine nuts. A quaint spot for picking up local goodies is the tiny market in a boat beside the tourist office.

Away from the crowds – Scenes of the Sado

The town has two converted salt galleons, the Pinto Luísa and the Amendoeira (not dissimilar to Porto’s rabelos), which are available for half or full day sailings on the Sado. Each hold about 35 people and can be booked through the council’s website – something easier said than done unfortunately. Nearly every time we’ve visited, the two boats have been berthed in the reeds on the opposite side of the river from the town.
But there’s no real need to take to the water for in search of tranquillity in Alcácer do Sal. The place has never been busy when we’ve been there, and once you wander away from the river, there’s even fewer people.

The quirk – The legend of the seamstress

I find the chunky iron bridge somewhat of an anomaly, but the legend of the seamstress is probably quirkier. Some people claim to hear the sound of a sewing machine working non-stop, even saying they can identify its pedal being worked. One story goes, there was a seamstress making a dress for her daughter’s wedding, but she died before the wedding and her ghost continues to work at the gown, still preparing it for the big day. Another version is an abusive and alcoholic husband forced his wife to sew continually in order to make money to feed his habit. The poor woman sewed so much her spirit continued whirring away at the machine even after she died. Personally, I think it’s just the high-pitched buzz of mosquitos from nearby rice fields.

Summary

It’s incredibly easy to sum up this delightful Alentejano town in one line. Alcácer do Sal doesn’t need attractions, it is an attraction.

The story goes that Pontevedra was founded by the archer Teucer, a hero of the Trojan War. There’s not a great amount of evidence to back this up, but the origins story stuck, and now people from Pontevedra are called Teucrinos.

It was a thriving port for many years, famed for its fish curing and salt production and, by the 16th century, was one of the most populated of Galicia’s cities. Like many towns and cities that existed on ancient trading routes, it faded from the spotlight as the centuries rolled by, even though it remains a popular place to pause on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Now it rewards visitors with a beguiling blend of historic streets which buzz with a youthful ambience.

Six of the best of Pontevedra

The Main Attraction – Church of the Virgin Pilgrim

The Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina is an essential stop for any pilgrim passing through Pontevedra. Constructed in 1778, it’s a shrine to those following the way of St James. Even the floor plan is designed to mirror the shape of a scallop shell. Shellfish are a bit of a theme throughout the church, there’s also a mollusc-shaped fountain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to appreciate this impressive example of religious architecture, combing both Baroque and Neoclassical features, which welcomes visitors to the streets of the old quarter. Although entrance is free, for €1 you can climb to the church’s dome.

Blast from the past – Mercado de Abastos

Markets can be like a living link to the past. The way trade is conducted in older ones feels as though it hasn’t changed much in centuries. And so it is with Pontevedra’s bustling Mercado de Abastos, which is open from early morning till 15:00 daily except for Sunday. It has all the usual products you’d expect from a Spanish market – cheeses, hams, chorizos, vociferous shoppers – but being close the coast, the fish and seafood are especially good. The first floor is a designated gastronomic area; a great place to enjoy local goodies while soaking up the atmosphere and aromas of the market below.

A Serene scene – The Jardines de Casto Sampedro

The Jardines de Casto Sampedro are one of the few green spaces within the old town and are known for being the location of the fountain which symbolises Pontevedra’s hospitable nature as it traditionally provided fresh drinking water for pilgrims. For a truly tranquil spot cross the Ponte do Burgo and follow the river east to reach the Illa das Esculturas, Galicia’s largest open air art museum, where over 10 sculptures blend in, sort of, with the island’s natural elements. Basically, it’s a big park with lots of works of art.

A taste of – empanadas

Although empanadas (pies with a savoury filling) are a speciality throughout Galicia, they are especially popular in the tascas and taverns of Pontevedra. Empanadas have been the street food of pilgrims since the 12th century. It’s even said there’s a pilgrim eating one carved into the Santiago de Compostela’s Pórtico de la Gloria, but we haven’t tracked him down yet. Before visiting Galicia, we were used to Spanish empanadas being filled with mostly tuna and tomato. Here, you can find octopus, scallops, cockles, cuttlefish, chorizo, chicken and mushrooms, cod and raisins, and a lot more. The one on the picture was at Tapería La Estafeta near the Parador de Pontevedra.

Away from the crowds – Casa das Campas

Pontevedra’s great charm lies in the maze of streets that make up its historic quarter. The network of narrow lanes is a labyrinth full of little interesting snippets to devour – old fountains, intriguing sculptures, discreet plazas, buildings with fascinating pasts. One of these is Casa de Campas, once home to Benito de Soto, considered the last great pirate by some, and a murderous psychopath by others. Legend has it there is treasure stashed away in the old house. There are plenty of atmospheric bars nearby to sit with a drink and ponder where the old sea goat might have hidden it.

The quirk – the parrot Ravachol

The annoying thing about the sculpture of the parrot Ravachol is I didn’t take a photo of him. I thought the sculpture was something to do with the bank (formerly a pharmacy) it’s located outside on Rúa Michelena. It was only after we left that I discovered Ravachol was a parrot extraordinaire. Not only did he squawk loudly when anyone tried to steal from the pharmacy that was his home, he was also an enthusiastic participant in the intellectual soirees his owner regularly held there. Ravachol was so beloved by Teucrinos, his symbolic burial is now an integral part of the city’s carnival celebrations.

Summary

Pontevedra doesn’t really have any attributes that makes it sexy enough to draw anyone seeking iconic Instagram material. It is simply an extremely pleasing place to spend time in, to wander slowly, pausing at pavement cafes and bars, and taking an eternity over lunches in picturesque plazas. Maybe that’s what makes Pontevedra so appealing. In a world where some travellers treat notching up destinations like it’s just a numbers game, Pontevedra’s pilgrim personality slows the pace right down, allowing you to appreciate qualities you might otherwise miss.

Where is Piran?

Hemmed in by Italy to the north and Croatia to the south, Slovenia has less than 47km of coastline. There are three main towns on this stretch of land overlooking the Adriatic, the pick of which is Piran, whose historic centre is squeezed into a lizard’s head-shaped peninsula.

A snatch of historic background

As first-time visitors to Piran, what immediately struck us was how it felt more Italian than the towns we’d passed through/stayed in during our travels around Slovenia. There’s a good reason for this. Initially under Byzantine rule, Piran was part of the Republic of Venice from the 13th century until 1797. After that it was part of the Austrian Empire, Napoleonic Empire, belonged to Trieste, and then was annexed to Yugoslavia. It’s been Slovenian since 1991, but it’s the Venetian period which has left the biggest impression.

So, what’s not to like about a town with picturesque Venetian architecture?

It’s time I put my opener into context. We’d just spent the previous couple of weeks travelling around Slovenia on foot, in a car, and by train. Apart from a stay in Ljubljana after we arrived in the country, all our bases were in rural accommodation in scenic, tranquil valleys. We were used to a countryside that was largely devoid of people, and Piran was rammed. It was full of bronzed people of all ages, lounging all along the concrete promenade which separates the pastel Venetian buildings from the sparkling Adriatic. Basically, finding ourselves in the midst of crowds of people after the serenity of the hinterland came as a culture shock. Had we arrived directly from Ljubljana it would have been a different story.

What’s Piran like?

It’s pretty, and compact, and a tad bewildering. The town’s sea-facing façade is undeniably pleasing on the eye – immaculate, slender townhouses with soft peach, pale lemon, and minty green colours stand shoulder to shoulder with grander edifices such as the Town Hall and the Venetian House. A row back, the scene is more shabby chic, the pastel façades weather weary but still attractive. Being sardined into a small peninsula means space is at a premium, resulting in a network of narrow alleys, some linked by arched tunnels. It’s small, but it’s also easy to lose your bearings once you venture away from the seafront.

What is there to do in Piran?

Piran is a place to kick back, following the lead of the visiting Italians who add volume to its bustling streets during the summer months. Early morning or late afternoon is best for a meandering stroll. There are no standout attractions, merely a few quite interesting ones.

The Punta Lighthouse is where the fires that gave the town its name (from the Greek pyr) were lit to guide ships into the port of Koper.

The Cathedral of St George has a belltower based on St Mark’s campanile in Venice. The weathervane atop it is used by locals for weather predictions. Pointing toward northern Italy is good, pointing toward Croatia isn’t.

A climb to the town’s old walls rewards with views across Piran to the Adriatic and Italy, and, if the weather is right, even as far as the Alps.

Tartini Square is Piran’s showpiece. Opening onto the pretty harbour, the marbled square is simply a nice place to hang out, drinking a beer at a pavement café, browsing the small artisan market, or picking up some souvenirs made with salt from Secovlje Salina Nature Park further along the coast.

Enjoy sunset. The show when the sun goes down is quite lovely. It might not be dramatic – no fiery streaks flashing across the sky – but the dreamy hues that turn sky and sea mauve (no filters used in the photo) compliment the colours of the Venetian buildings perfectly.

What and where to eat in Piran

Fish and shellfish are mostly the order of the day in the restaurants along the seafront, which come as a welcome change if you’ve spent several days with the hale, hearty, and meaty fare of the interior. Unsurprisingly, there’s a strong Italian influence in the cuisine, again no bad thing; although, a pizza we had during lunch at Pizzeria Batana overlooking the harbour was only so-so.

We wanted to try the characterful, hole-in-the-wall Fritolin pri Cantini where a plate of sardines came in at under €7 (great value in Piran, where prices were higher than other areas), but we had no chance. On a summer night, getting in anywhere wasn’t easy. Thankfully our hotel, Hotel Piran, served food as elegant as the surrounding architecture. An added attraction was its terrace beside the sea occupies the best spot in town. At around €20 for a not-very-big main course, it was pricey though.

Overall opinion

Once I got over the culture shock, I was able to appreciate Piran’s charms more. It is a pretty little town that feels more Italian than Slovenian, which makes for an interesting contrast to other parts of the country. As a place to end a trip which took us from the east to the west and from north to south, it was an aesthetically pleasing location to wind down before heading home. But I don’t think I’d want to spend more than a couple of days there. Maybe that’s just because I found other parts of Slovenia more interesting.

Interesting Piran snippet

In 2010, the people of Piran elected Peter Bossman as their mayor. The Ghana-born doctor was the first black mayor to be elected in an eastern European country.

Although a coastal town in north west Crete, there is a distinctly Italian flair to some of the pastel-coloured townhouses which back its picturesque harbour. This is thanks to the influence of the Venetians who gave the seafront its distinctive character when they ruled Chania between 1204 and 1645, one of many nationalities who stamped their influenced on the town over the centuries. At various times, Chania has been under the domain of Romans, Byzantines, Turks, Egyptians, Arabs and, more recently during the Second World War, the Germans.
This potpourri of different nationalities has resulted in a community which is cosmopolitan in its attitude to visitors. This is a town which is no stranger to strangers.

Behind the harbour lies a labyrinth of narrow streets connecting the Jewish quarter with the Turkish quarter. Alleys here are filled with tavernas, markets, stalls selling leather goods, and various artisanal outlets. It’s a town where you feel as if you’re in the east in one backstreet, then back in the west in the next.

Six of the Best of Chania

The main attraction – the harbour

Apart from being a wonderful place to promenade, with plenty of bars, cafes, and restaurants, the harbour’s crowning glory is the Egyptian Lighthouse standing guard at its entrance. Originally built by the Venetians in the 16th century, a chain once connected the lighthouse with the Firka Fortress on the other side of the harbour. This could be raised when the town was under attack, preventing access. Runner-up stand-out sight on the harbour is the pink dome of Giali Tzamisi – the mosque by the sea, where horse and carriage rides through the old town begin.

The not-so-main attraction – atmospheric backstreets

The harbour may represent Chania’s attractive façade, but the backstreets are where you’ll find most evidence of Chania’s multicultural past. South east from the harbour is the Splanzia district, the Turkish quarter which, with its mix of tavernas and cafes, churches and minarets, is considered one of the prettiest areas of the town. Head west, passing the Municipal Market and the leather stalls of Stivanadika (Leather Street – where there are still some good buys to be had; I picked up a great wallet here) to Topanas, the Jewish quarter with its museums and galleries, picturesque townhouses, synagogue, churches, and boutique shops.

The serene scene – the sea wall

Chania’s harbour doesn’t look particularly big, yet a harbourside stroll from the Firkas Fortress to the Egyptian Lighthouse via the former port comes in not far short of two kilometres. It’s a distance which deters many. When you take a pew beneath the old sea wall, you shouldn’t be sharing the panorama with hordes of people. And what a view. This is where you appreciate the ‘between the White Mountains and the blue of the Cretan Sea’ quote. We sat there in the sunshine contemplating the dramatic mountain backdrop, pondering whether their white peaks was what earned them their name or whether they were just snowclad.

Flavours of Chania

The Greeks do harbourside dining exceedingly well. There’s something about the whole package that is irresistible. Chania has plenty of seafront restaurants in which to enjoy Greek mezes involving Cretan specialities such as fennel pancakes (marathopita) and courgette fritters (kolokithokeftedes). But some of the best restaurants are found in those bewildering backstreets. Tamam in the Jewish quarter was once Turkish steam baths. It’s now a hugely popular restaurant with locals thanks to a menu showcasing the best of traditional Cretan cuisine. Our recommendation is apakia, pork that’s marinated in wine vinegar before being smoked and flavoured with spices and wild herbs. It is sensational.

A toast to Chania

Generally speaking, tourists prefer the western side of the harbour, locals the eastern curve. Which is where you’ll find Barbarossa, a lovely Venetian townhouse with super views. It’s hugely popular at sunset and weekends when the party goes on all night (take note if staying on seafront accommodation). If its bustling scene doesn’t suit, Boheme’s courtyard, a couple of streets back from the seafront, is a quirkier alternative. Past lives include being part of a monastery and a stint as a soft drinks factory. The courtyard has a 400-year-old yew tree, while decorative elements include a roof made from slats from the WWII German railway.

The quirk

Admittedly they border on the cheesy and are most definitely aimed at a tourist market, but there’s still something charming about the floating shops in the Kasteli area, where the Venetian shipyards were once located. Opposite the distinctive seven A-frame roofs of the Neoria buildings, designed for ship repairs, are typically Greek blue fishing boats converted into floating stalls selling sponges, conch, and wind chimes made from shells.

Summary

Chania is one of those destinations which doesn’t really have any WOW standout aspects. There’s nothing particularly outstanding to draw hordes of day-trippers. It’s a place that just looks and feels nice to wander around. And that might be one of the factors that make it such a pleasant town to stay in, especially for people who enjoy an interesting and aesthetically pleasing mix of history and architecture, atmospheric alleys, good restaurants, and a nice equilibrium between locals and tourists.

Most beautiful towns in Portugal, Alentejo & south

Marvão

Marvão comes in at first position as it dominated our view for four months. Perched on a rock overlooking the golden Alentejo plains, this walled, Moorish town near the border with Spain is as stunning up close as it is from a distance. You can drive through the (incredibly) narrow old streets to park in the upper town, but it’s far more relaxing to park outside the walls and walk up the winding streets to the castle where the reward for the thigh-stretching stroll is expansive views across the white-washed town to Alentejo plains which seem to go on forever.

Castelo de Vide

Alentejo boasts more than its fair share of picturesque towns perched on hilltops. Another is Castelo de Vide, a town known for grain milling and wool weaving (its residents were known as cardadores because of this). Thanks to its proximity to the border, Castelo de Vide became a refuge for Jews expelled from Spain during the Inquisition. There are still many reminders of their influence to be seen around the old streets, like the Fonte da Vila in the old Jewish quarter. I enjoyed the best gazpacho I’ve eaten anywhere at restaurant A Confraria, located near the Igreja de S. João in Castelo de Vide.

Reguengos de Monsaraz

Alentejo again I’m afraid. Reguengos de Monsaraz is another peach of a walled, hilltop town with pretty, whitewashed houses, cobbled streets, and a castle. It has a more bohemian feel than the previous two mentioned, with lots of artisan shops and street art decorating its immaculate lanes. It also attracts more visitors, but that doesn’t distract from its obvious charms. Even on a sweltering June day, it didn’t feel too crowded (see photo). An added attraction is the view from the ramparts of cerulean lakes which add a burst of vibrancy to the green and gold landscape.

Mértola

This is the final Alentejo entry, honest. Mértola sits on a rocky outcrop above the confluence of the Guadiana and Oeiras rivers. The old town is reached via an exquisite arched gate which wouldn’t look out of place in Granada’s Alhambra Palace. While the old centre may not be quite as pretty as some other towns on the list, its location sets it apart. Instead of sprawling plains, the terrain undulates more, and the gentle hills are covered with olive and cypress trees. But it’s the river snaking below the ramparts which adds that special touch.

Most beautiful towns in Portugal, central

Sintra

Anyone who knows anything about Portugal will have heard of Sintra. There’s nowhere else quite like it in the country, and it’s easily accessed from Lisbon. It is a tourist magnet and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and deservedly so. With its colourful flamboyant palaces, it reminds me a bit of Portmeirion in Wales, albeit on a far grander scale. Sintra owes its existence to Ferdinand II who, in 1840, transformed a derelict monastery into a palace with Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish, and Renaissance architectural features which he then surrounded with a vast park.

Óbidos

I’m not the biggest fan of the area of central Portugal just north of Lisbon, in the looks department that is. It’s a wee bit too urbanised. But historic Óbidos is another of Portugal’s walled jewels. The old town consists of typical whitewashed town houses whose sharp edges are softened by blue and mustard bands. It’s a good place to try the popular sour cherry liqueur, ginjinha de Óbidos, which is sold from numerous little shops at around €1 a shot. Incidentally, Pasto da Vila does the most delicious pão com chouriço (bread with chorizo embedded into it).

Most beautiful towns in Portugal, north

Costa Nova

Nearby Aveiro, Portugal’s little Venice, often appears on Portugal’s prettiest towns lists. But I don’t think it’s as appealing as Costa Nova, located on the flimsiest strip of land between the Atlantic and the Aveiro Lagoon. What makes Costa Nova so pretty is its row of unique, brightly striped, clapperboard houses which makes the town feel more like a film set. The houses were originally built as fishermen’s huts but, over time, they increasingly became used as holiday homes. With long, sandy beaches on one side and the calm lagoon on the other, it’s an idyllic place to spend sultry summer months.

Ponte de Lima

I hummed and hawed between Ponte da Barca and Ponte de Lima for the final spot. In truth, both are worthy of a mention – two historic towns sitting on the banks of the Minho River in northern Portugal. Ponte de Lima edges it because it’s the oldest town in Portugal, there’s more of its historic architecture on view from the opposite side of the river, and the Roman bridge which links the main town with a charming neighbourhood on the northern side of the Minho is prettier than Ponte da Barca’s bridge; it also forms part of the Caminho de Santiago.

The most beautiful towns in Portugal, summary

When it comes to writing lists of ‘the most beautiful places in…” they are always going to be subjective. Other people might include Tavira, Monsanto, or Tomar, a place which Portuguese friends rated highly but which didn’t work its charm on us. There’s only one town on my list which matches the seven we saw chosen on Portuguese TV back in 2017; although, I’d still argue the ones above are more picturesque. The point is, Portugal has a wealth of beautiful towns to discover.

Jack Montgomery is author of the travelogue Camel Spit & Cork Trees: A Year of Slow Travel Through Portugal.